Ascent Log

(Third Ascent)

  1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
  2. Ascent area, ridge — Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range from Ktlod Pass to Gezhevtsek Pass.
  3. Ascent route — Tsurungal via the southeast wall (4222 m) – Central Nезнакомка (4100 m) – Bolshaya Nезнакомка (4200 m).
  4. Difficulty category — 5B.
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1980 m, length of 5th-6th difficulty sections — 720 m, average steepness (excluding the ridge part) — 65–70°.
  6. Pitons hammered:
rock and stoppersice screwsbolt pitons
for belay168140
for artificial100
climbing aids
  1. Total climbing hours — 37 hours.
  2. Number of nights — 3 in tents on platforms, with gusty strong winds.
  3. Team members: captain — Smirnov Yury Viktorovich, Candidate Master of Sports participants:
  • Lipchinsky Alexander Grigorievich – Master of Sports
  • Arsentyev Sergey Anatolyevich — 1st sports category
  • Basenko Alexander Ivanovich — 1st sports category
  1. Team coach — Smirnov Yu.V.
  2. Date of departure 7 August 1979, date of return — 10 August 1979.

Sources

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